African Detour
Emmy thinks that maybe Mum and Dad are cross. Dad is holding
the steering wheel very tightly and Mum is frowning, that deep furrowed frown
that she gets sometimes, especially when baby Daniel is crying. But he’s not
crying now; he’s sleeping in his carseat, all strapped in, and even though his
face is redder than usual he looks all right to her. She likes him better when
he’s sleeping; he can’t take her dollies and shove them into his mouth, or pull
the clothes off. Mum even took away her baby dolly’s best little dress because
it had buttons on it. He might suck them off, she said, and choke! She wouldn’t
want him to choke, would she?
Of course not. She doesn’t want baby Daniel to choke. But
she would like him to be better so he will stop crying so much and ruining
their holiday. That’s what Dad said, that Daniel being sick is ruining their
holiday. That’s why they had to leave the nice place they were staying, where
there were pony rides and cartoons on the TV in the hotel room. They were going
to the nearest big town to find a doctor for him, because it’s been two days of
this high fever, Mom says, and she’s worried.
But Dad must have taken a wrong turn because now they are
lost. Mum says it like a bad word: lost. She keeps taking out her phone and
frowning at it, but it doesn’t do any good. There are maps on Mum and Dad’s
phones, but they aren’t working now. Emmy isn’t sure why, but she thinks it’s
because they are in Lesotho. The maps on the phones don’t work when they are
driving in Lesotho. She takes out her own phone – it’s plastic and the buttons
don’t do anything, but she pretends they do. She takes a photo of sleeping
Daniel on her phone. Click! She says, pointing it at him just like Mum does.
It’s getting dark. She was hungry, but Mum gave her some
raisins and a cheesy triangle. She would rather be having proper supper but
there’s nowhere to have it here. It’s very bumpy driving on this road, and she
holds her baby dolly tightly in her arms. Don’t worry, she whispers to her
baby. We’ll be there soon.
The road is getting bumpier. Daniel is still sleeping but
Mum keeps turning around in her seat and leaning over to him to feel his
forehead. Last time she did that she shook her head and put her hand over her
mouth. Oh Gareth, she said to Dad,
and Dad put his hand on her knee. Mum always says Oh Gareth like that when
she’s worried, or cross, or happy.
Emmy drifts off for a bit and when she opens her eyes the
car has stopped. It’s properly dark now, and she can hear voices. Mum and Dad
are not in the car; they have got out and they are talking to some people
outside, Lesotho people. They speak differently here. Sometimes she can’t
understand them at all. She peers out of the window and she can see two people
with blankets around them. Mum told her about that – people in Lesotho wear
blankets instead of jerseys and jackets.
Mum and Dad are talking too and she hears Oh Gareth again.
Now it sounds as if Mum is crying. She doesn’t like that. When Mum cries she
feels all strange and she doesn’t like it. She wants to cry too. The Lesotho
people are talking loudly, and now one has opened the car door, letting in a
blast of cold air, and is looking in at Daniel who has woken up. It is a lady
with a round face, dark skin and a cloth on her head. She peers at Daniel and
then over at Emmy. Emmy was about to cry too, but the lady smiles a big funny
smile at her and she decides she doesn’t need to after all.
Then Daddy is unbuckling her seatbelt and lifting her out of
the car, and she puts her head on his shoulder, shy to look at all the Lesotho
people, cuddling her baby dolly close to her between Dad’s warm body and hers.
It’s very cold outside, much colder than home. It’s because we are in the
mountains, Dad had told her before. He had said then that there might be snow
but she hasn’t seen any yet.
Dad carries her to a little house. It really is very little,
only one room inside, and the only lights are some candles that one of the men
in the blankets put there. Mum follows with Daniel in his carseat. He is crying
now, but softly, not like his usual crying at all. Mum sits down on the little
bed against the wall and takes him out. He’s
burning up, Gareth, she says. He’s
burning up!
We can’t carry on,
love, says Dad. We don’t have enough petrol to get back and if we try we’ll be
stranded on the side of the road. Emmy wonders what stranded is. It doesn’t
sound good. She agrees with Dad; they should stay here. There is one little bed
that Mum is sitting on, and a mattress on the floor. Oh Gareth, she hears
again, as Dad puts her down. She checks on baby dolly. She has a fever too, and
she is also crying softly. Mum is opening her shirt to feed Daniel, and Emmy
does the same for baby dolly. Daniel and baby dolly always feel better when
they have had a drink.
Dad goes out to get the suitcase and move the car. I need a wee, Emmy says to Mum, but then
she wishes she hadn’t because Mum is still feeding Daniel who is fussing, and
she is crying again. The lady with the round face looks in at the door.
Okay, nana? she
says to Emmy.
I need a wee, says
Emmy. The lady chuckles and says something to Mum.
Go with the nice lady,
Emmy, says Mum, through her tears. Leave
dolly with me, okay?
Emmy obeys and takes the lady’s outstretched hand. It is so
cold outside, and so, so dark. But the lady holds her hand tightly and takes
her behind the little house. They walk across some grass to a funny building
only as wide as a door. Emmy looks up at the lady, confused. The lady laughs
and opens the door. There’s a toilet inside! Emmy is so surprised she laughs
too.
When Dad comes back Emmy is snuggling against Mum, baby
dolly back in her arms. Dad opens the suitcase and gets out her Frozen pyjamas.
She can just make out Elsa on the front, and the icicles all around. It’s
funny, she thinks. Elsa would like Lesotho. It’s icy cold, just like her. He
helps her put them on as fast as she can, so she doesn’t get too cold. Then he
rubs her arms and legs up and down, up and down, so she giggles and says Don’t
Daddy, I’m warm now.
He tucks her up on the mattress on the floor with her pink
blankie that was in the suitcase. Maybe tomorrow Mum will let her put it over
her shoulder instead of a jersey. She closes her eyes; she can hear Mum changing
Daniel and she can smell his dirty nappy. She hears some more Lesotho people
come in and talk to Mum and Dad, and then they go out again. Dad lies down on
the mattress next to her, and then there’s a funny-smelling blanket over both
of them – funny-smelling but nice and warm. Mum and Dad are talking softly, and
Daniel has stopped crying.
He drank a bit, they say. And the Panado is staying down.
We’ll find some phone reception in the morning, love. We’ll call someone to
help us. It’ll be okay. Emmy is being such a star, isn’t she? They think she’s
sleeping, but she’s not. These people are so kind. Can you believe it? She’s
all warm now, and baby dolly is too. The voices fade, and she is asleep.
In the morning there is funny sweet white porridge for breakfast.
The Lesotho people bring it in a blue tin bowl for her, and she sits on the
step outside the little house in her Elsa pyjamas and her pink blankie and eats
it all. Dad has gone to find somewhere where the phone will work, says Mum.
Daniel is still sick, but Emmy thinks he’s not as red as he was yesterday. And
he’s having some milk again now. That will make Mum happy.
She can see now that someone forgot to paint this house, and
that there’s no proper floor, only hard dirt. Her fluffy slippers are all brown
already, and all she did was go to the funny loo again. Dad took her this time.
Look Dad, she says. There’s no flush! Just a deep hole! But Dad didn’t think it
was funny. He just told her to hurry.
And there are children, lots of them, who want to touch her
pink blankie and her hair. She can’t understand what they are saying, but she
lets some of them hold baby dolly. She wants to go and play with them, but Mum
looks worried. The nice lady with the round face pats Mum on the shoulder and
tells her not to worry. Mum nods yes but Emmy knows she doesn’t like it.
The children show her where they climb rocks and where
there’s a hole with a snake in it. They make snake noises and wiggle their
hands and Emmy knows what they mean. They ask her name and she tries to say
theirs. One girl a little bigger than her gives her a sweet in a plastic
wrapper and Emmy eats it guiltily. Mom doesn’t let her eat sweets except at
parties. But this is like a party, with so many children. A pyjama party, she
thinks, giggling to herself. Mum has forgotten to dress her.
When she gets back Mum hugs her hard. I didn’t know where
you were, she says. And Daddy’s not back yet. Emmy pats Mum’s hair. Mum is
frowning again, and her eyes are red like Daniel’s.
Don’t worry, Mummy, says Emmy. Baby dolly is feeling all
better now and Daniel is too. She goes over to him where he is sitting in his
carseat on the floor. She leans over him and wiggles her fingers at him and he
smiles, just a little.
And then Daddy is back with the Lesotho man and he’s smiling
too. He looks funny; his clothes are messy and he hasn’t shaved, and there’s a
smudge of dirt on his face. He hugs Mum and says something to her, and she says
Oh Gareth again. But it’s a happy Oh Gareth this time.
She plays with the children again and eats some greasy
little doughnut balls they give her. She doesn’t want the triangle cheese and
the rice cakes Mum offers her after that. Daniel has a long nap and so does
Mum, and then a car arrives with some petrol for their car. And she has to say
goodbye to the Lesotho children, and Mum is saying Oh Gareth, she’s still in
her pyjamas! And they are driving away down the bumpy road.
She looks over at Daniel. She finds a toy on the seat and
reaches over to give it to him. He grabs it and stuffs it in his mouth. Was
that a nice holiday, Daniel? she asks. He goos at her, and she laughs.
She’s lifting baby dolly up to show him now, and she sees
Mum half-turned to look at them in the back.
Oh look at them Gareth, says Mum, reaching
over to put her arm around Dad’s shoulder as he drives. Dad lifts his chin to
look at them in his rear-view mirror. She catches his eye and he winks. It was cold in the village, cold enough for Elsa and her icicles. But she's not cold now; the sun streams through the window making her sleepy. Lesotho is not so cold, she thinks, remembering the smiley woman, the funny toilet, the children and the sweet porridge. Elsa wouldn't like it here much after all.
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